Buttonhole-sewing machine.



1. s. GREENE al L. F. A.V BU'CHNER. BUTTGNHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

1,208,950. ^PP"'c^TUN FILED 53.16. |912.

Patented Dec. 19, 1916.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

1.6.GREENE E L. E. A. BCHNER.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. I6. 1912.

4Patentd ne@.19,1916.

3 SHEETS--SHEET 3.

m l Erl ATTORNEY operating rock-shaft having a loose connec- N UNITEDsTATEs PATENT oEEIcE.

JAMES G. GREENE AN D LOUIS F. A. BCHNEB, 0F ELIZAJBET NEW JERSEY,ASSIGN- OBS 10 THE SINGER MANUFACTURING CGMIANY, 'A COBPQ ATION 0F NEWJERSEY.

BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

. Specication o1' Letters Patent.

Patellt'd'lmmg, 1916 To all 'm4/1.0ml 'it may concern:

Be it known that we, JAMES G; GREENE and Louis F. A. BGHNER, citizens ofthe United States, residing at Elizabeth, New Jersey, in the county ofUnion and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which the following is aspecification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to an improvement in buttonhole stitchingmachines, and isvdirected particularly to novel features of theWork-holder and means for operating the same. x

It has for one of its objects to provide automatically acting meanslwhereby the Work-clamping members may be successively closed upon thework and s read for a stitching operation and therea ter opened torelease the Work, and to provide clamp-operating means actingindependently of the actuating means for ther stitch-forming and'cutting mechanisms, invorder that the timing of the several groups ofmechanism may be arranged .each independently of the others so as toreduce to a minimum the time required in performing a complete cycle ofthe entire machine.

`It has for a further object to provide a simple and effectiveconstruction for the wor r-holder whereby the actuation of a singleelement thereof will accomplish the closing and opening of the clampingjaws and the spreading and drawing together of the separable pairsthereof.

In its preferred embodiment, the machine is constructed with rotarystitchforming mechanism and work-feeding mechanism including adwell-producing member so connected with the stitch-for1ning mechanismas to produce a semi-rotation thereof while thel longitudinal feed ofthe work is arrested for stitching an end of the buttonhole. The.work-holder derives its longitudinal feeding movements from aconnection with 'the feeding mechanism, and comprises pairs of separableclamping jaws movable laterally toward and from each other and ada tedto be drawn together into clamping rei) tion by means of a toggleconnection with an tion with a slide-'plate suitably constructed andconnected with the laterally movable clamping jaws to cause them to beseparated and drawn together by the clam -jaw closlng and openingmovements ofp the rockshaft. t

In the present embodiment, the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms areadapted to be connected for operation by one driv- 1ng element while twoindependent trains of mechanism are adapted for operative connectionwith another driving element for eliectlng the operation of aslit-cutting mechanism and the clamp-opening and closlng device, theformer being actuated once and the latter twice in each complete cycleof the machine. anism includes arock-lever having a permanent connectionwith the operating rockshaft of the traveling work-holder, which is animportant feature of the construction, especially with differentadjustments of feed-traverse to which the clamp-operating mechanismadjusts itself without any chan consequent upon the adjustment of thefee ing mechanism.

The invention will be understood by reference to the drawings annexedhereto,` in which- Figure 1 is a front side elevation of a buttonholestitching and cutting machine em` bodying the same and containingstitchforming, feeding and slit-cutting mechanisms constructed insubstantial accordance with our applications Serial N o. 576,639, filedAug. 11,'1910, and Serial No. 597,113, filedDec. 13, 1910; and Fig. 2 isa plan of the same with the frame in section above the work-plate. Fig.3 is a rear side elevation of the machine and Fig. 4 a bottom plan of a.portion thereof showing the clampoperating mechanism from the underside. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a portion of the worm-Wheelcoupling and uncoupling device and Fig. 6 a similar view of one of th'eelements thereof. Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the means for turningthe stitch-forming mechanismbackward through a semi-rotation intoinitial position after a stitching operation. Fig. 8 is a frontelevation showing the feeding mechanism and controlling device indifferent positions from those represented in Fig. 1. Fig. 9 is aperspective view of the work-clamp'with one pair of the clamping jawsand certain other parts omitted to expose, constructive features.

The clampoperating mechgarde the feedin thereof, and Fig. 10 aperspective view of the under side of the lower clamping jawplates. Fig.11 is an edge view of the clamp slide-plate and the lowerclamping-jawplates applied thereto. Fig. 12 is an elevation, partly insection, representing the driving shaft with the clutch mechanismapplied thereto.

As represented in. the drawings, the machine is constructed with a framecomprising the bed-plate 1 from which rises the lower base member 2supporting the fixed work-plate 3 and the standard 4 with overhangingarm 5 constituting the upper frame member which latter, with thestandard 4, is strengthend by the rib 6. The arm 5 carries the upperand-'lower bearing bosses 7 and 8 for the rotary bushings in which isjournaled the reciprocating' needle-bar 9 carrying the needle 10 whichcooperates in the production of overseam stitches with looper mechanism11 carried by the rotary bushing 12 journaled in the bearing boss 13 ofthe base member 2. The needle-bar receives its reciprocatory movementsthrough a link connection 14 withthe vforward end of a rock-lever 15fulcrumed at 16 upon the arm 5 and having its rearward end connected bymeans of the pitman 17 with a crankpin 1S carried by a pinion 19 drivenby a gear 20 fixed upon t e transverse main or driving shaft 21. TheIooper mechanism derives its operative movements from a connecton withthe lateral arm 22 of an anglelever fulcrumed at 23 upon the base member2 and having an upright arm 24 deriving vibratory movements from aconnection with the main-shaft. The needle receives its overseaming orlateral jogging movements from a rock-lever 25 fulcrumed upon the arm 5and also deriving its rocking movements from a connection with thedrivin r shaft.

Ihe segmental feed-pawl carrying plate 26 is mounted upon a vibratinglever 27 which is fulcrumed upon a stud 28 vsustained by the vstandard 4and is provided 'with a forked arm 29 embracing a slideblock 3() fittedupon the actuating eccentric 31 of the main-shaft 21 which thus impartsoperative jogging movements to the plate 26. This feed-pawl carryingplate has pivotally mounted thereon the spring-pressed luralarmed pawls32, S33-and 34 ada ted or operative engagement respective y with theperipheral teeth of the ratchet-wheels 35, 36 y and 37, theratchet-wheels 35 and 36 being connected for simultaneous rotation bymeans of the intermeshing gear-wheels 38 'and 39, while theratchet-wheelv 37, as remechanism, exercises the functionof a dwel-producing member without eiiect imparting longitudinal -feedingmovements to the work.v

Fixed to and adapted to rotate with the ratchet-wheel 36 and gear-wheel39 is the feed-pinion 40 meshing with the sliding rack 41 which carriesthe upwardly projecting plate 42 operatively connected by means of thesectional link-bar 43 with a lug- 44 at the rearward end of thework-holder slideplatc 45 adapted for longitudinal and transversesliding movements upon the workplate 3 for imparting to the worktraveling movements to spaceithe stitrhes.

A series of spring-pressed detent-levers 46, 47 and .48 is pivotallymounted upon the jogging pawl-cariying plaie 26 each adjacent one ofsaid pawls, and is formed with a notched -extremit' adapted for engage.-ment with an arm o said pawl. A series of pand-lifting levers 4!) 50 and51 is also mounted upon the pawi-carrying plate, each adjacent itsrespective pawl.

Vif'hen the machine is at rest, all of the pawls are disengaged fromtheir respective ratchet-wheels. At the beginning of a stitchingoperation, the ('letcnt-pawl 46 is retracted and the pawl 32 caused toassume operative relation with the ratchet-wheel 35, thereby impartingreverse step-by-step rotary movements to the intermeshing gearwheels 33and 39 and imparting through the pinion 40, rack 41 and sectionallink-bar 43 the requisite traveling movements to the work-holder for thefirst side-stitching operation.. Upon the engagement of the studpin 52,carried by the gear 38, with a lateral arm of the pawl-lifting member49, the latter. is rocked to retract the pawl 32 which is detained ininoperative position by the detent-lever 46.

The rocking of the pawl-lifter 49 acts through the connecting rod 53 toretract the dctent-lever 48 to permit the pawl 34 to assume operativerelation with the ratchetwheel 37 which continues during the stitchingof the end of the bu-ttonhole, at the eompletion of which the engagementof the ,tripping lug .'34, moving with the ratchetwheel 37, with alateral arm of the pawllifter 51 causes the extremity of the paw]-lifting arm to engage a lateral arm of the paw] 34- to retract the sameto inoperative position, and sinuiltaneously 4the engagement of a pin 55carried by said pawl-lifter with the inturned extremity of the pushrod56 connected with` the`deteut-lever 47 causes the retraction of thelattcr'to permit the operative engagement of the pawl with thereverse-feed ratchet-wheel 36, whereby the work-holder is moved-in theopposite direction for the Switching of the second side of thebuttonhole.

The gear-Wheel 39 carries the adjustably mounted tri ping stud `57 whichoperates through mechanism tobe hereafter described in arresting therotation of the main-shaft to interrupt the stitching and feedingactions. In the present instance tripping stud mossen 57 is clampedwithin the walls of an annular groove formed in said gear-wheel 39and isadapted to be adjusted therein after release of the clamping means,which may be of an suitable form. It will be seen that the osltion oftripping stud 57 on gear-whee 39, with respect to lever 262, willdetermine the length of traverse of the work-clamp. When stud 57 isadjusted on gear-wheel 39 to insure a greater or a less partialrevolution of said wheel before said stud trips lever 262 to stop thestitching mechanism, the movement of tripping stud 52 carried bygear-wheel 38 is changed accordingly, by the increased or diminishedmovement of the intermeshing gear-wl'ieels, so that the succeedingforward and backward movements of 'the work-clamp are uniform. The.detentlever 46 is shown provided with an upwardly extendingr arm58'carrying a tilting contact-plate 59 pivoted thereto by means of thestud-screw 60 and normally maintained in inclined position, asrepresented in Figs. 1 and 8, by means of the spring 61. The descent ofa tripping rod 62 carried by an element of the stop-motion device fromthe position represented in Fig. 1 to that shown in Fig. 8 brings theextremity of said rod into operative engagement with the contactplateand thrusts the same backwardly so as to disengage the datent-lever 46from the feed-pawl 32 to set the feeding mechanism Vin` action at thebeginning of a buttonhole While the contactplate is so mounted, in amanner well known, as to maintain a rigid relation with the supportingarm 58 during the descent of the rod 62, the upward movement of thelatter following the tripping of the stop-motion serves to merely tiltthe contact-plate out of its own path of movement without rocking thepawl-detainer to prematurely release the initial feed-pawl.

The work-holder slide-plate 45 is formed with the usual centrallongitudinal slot 63 embracing the needle-throat 64 containing theneedle-aperture 65and gimp-hole 66'. Around the enlarged end portion ofVthis slot is a U-shaped recess 67 in which is Htted for longitudinalmovement the correspondvingly shaped spreader slide-plate 68, theparallel branches of which are provided upon the upper faces withconvergent guide-lips 69. Mounted upon the slide-plate 45 andoverlapping the spreader slide-plate 68 are two clamp-plates 70 withtheir adjacent edges shaped `to con form with the slot 63 and providedalso with complemental clearance recesses 71, and provided also on theirlower faces with convergent grooves 72 fitted to the ribs 69 of theslide-plate 68.

Secured t@ the plates 70 by meansfof screws entering apertures 73therein, are the stitching operation.

bearing blocks,74 lprovided with alined bearing apertures 275 to receivethe operating countersthe rearward end of -95 secured by means edges 97of the plates crank-shaft 76 provided with the crank 77, the blocks 74.having rearward extensions 78 with bearing apertures 79 to receive thefulcrum-pins 8O of the clamp-arm sustaining blocks 81 to which aresecured by means of fastening screws 82 the spring clamp-arms 83 havingconnected to their outer ends by means of the pivotal pins 84 the spacedlugs 85 of the tilting clamping feet 86 affording the upperl jaws of alower jaws 87 are afforded by the upper faces of the clamp-plates 70.The clamparms 83 are embraced intermediate their ends by the forkedopposite extremities 88 of a pin 89 which is journaled inthe upper endof a split link 90 whose opposite end embraces the pin connecting thecrank-arms 77 ofthe rock-shaft 76. The turning of the rock-shaft 76forwardly, as viewed in Fig. 9, serves to draw-the pin 89 downwardly todepress the clamlp-arms 83 and close the clamp pin before engagementwith the spreaderi plate extension which latter partakes therefore of aportion only of the entire lateral motion of the link.

As will-be observed, the turning of the rock-shaft 76, whose crank is atthe side thereof when the clamp'is opened, as represented in Fig. 9,causes lthe immediate depression of the clamp-arms during the initialdescent of the crank-pin which is nearly completed before the linger 93enthe aperture 92 when the s reader-plate 68 is drawn backwnrdly andjthe two clamp-plates `70 forced apart by engagement of the convergentguide-ribs 69 with the clamp-platre grooves 72 entered thereby. As thepruts are constructed yund arranged to allow the cranks 77 to passbeneath the rock-shaft 76,

thus straightened, affords The bearing blocks 74 ,aire provided in their.rearward sideswith guideways entered by lateral tongues 94 of theguide-bars of the screws 96 to the the undercut forward 70 arefittedto'the similarly shaped rearward edges of guideblocks.98 securedby upon the slide-plate 45 I extremities of the ,recess 67. 4By theseslide-plate 45; and

fabric clamp whose Y means, the clamp-plates 70 are sustained upon theslide-plate 45 for movement toward and from each other under the actionof the spreinler-plate 68.

Secured upon the forward portion of the slide-plate 45 is anextension-plate 100 hose rearward extremity overlaps' the forward end ofthe slot 03 and is' provided with a gi|np-holdingspur .10| beneath whichthe gimp f; is adapted to be drawn from the gimp-hole 66 of thenelalle-throat and thence laterally to the. edge of the worlf-j'ilateand beneath theholding nipper-spring 102 cured in position by the screw103. In starting a buttonhole. stitching operation, the ginip is thusled parallel with lthe direction of feed and is suitably located toreceive the initial overseam stitches of the edge-covering seam.

The 1atcl1et-wlleel 37 is fixed upon the forward end of the transverseshaft 104 and has rigidly connected therewith the toothed sector 105meshing with but having a diameter double that of the. bevel pinion 106mounted upon the upright shaft 107 provided at .the upper and lower endswith the pinions 108 and 109 engaging the teeth at the rearward ends ofthe rack-bars 110 and 111 provided with teeth at their forward ends inmesh with the pinions 112 and 113 fixed respectively to the upperneedle-bar bushing and the rotary looper-carrier. At its other end, andupon the rearward side of. the standard 4, the shaft 104 has securedthereon a collar 114 provided upon one side with a radially andforwardly projecting finger 115 and upon the other side with asubstantially radial Cam-arm 116. The period of engagement of the pawl34 with the ratchet-wheel 37 is such that the sector 105 with itssupporting shaft 104 is given a quarter-turn while the upright shaft 107receives a half-turn, thereby impartin to the upper and lower elementsof the stitch,- Vfornnng mechanism a semi-rotation intermediate theforward and backward feeding movements of the work-holder for stitchingaround the eye of the buttonhole.

The rearward end of the clamp-arm actuating shaft 76 has fixed thereonthe collar 117 provided with a fork 118 in which is pivotally mounted bymeans of the screws 119 the block 120 embraced by and pivotallyconnected by screws 121 with the fork 122 of a sleeve 123 longitudinallyslotted to re l eeive a feather 1.24 secured therein by means of thetransverse pins 1,25, as represented in Fig. 91 The feather 124 enters akeyway 126 of a shaft 127 slidingly fitted within the sleeve 123 andcarryinv a fork 128 pivotally connected by means of screws 129 with theblock 130 embraced by and pvoted by means of screws 131i* `within thefork 132 'of the rock-shaft 133 journaled within 4and sustained by abearing bracket 134 whose foot n forwardly extending arm 140 of theclampoperating roelclever sustained by the ful-- cram-screw 141 andprovided with a ri id rearwardly extending and inwardly of set arm 142terminating in a nose 143 and carrying a lateral pin 144. Thisrock-lever is provided with an apertured lug 142 adjacent its hub andembraced by' the forked rearward extremity 145 of a laterally swingingarm 146 pivoted to said lug by means of the transverse pin 147. Theswinging arm 146 is normally maintained yieldingly in substantialalinemeut with the rigid. arm 140 by means of a fiat spring 148 securedthereto by means of a screw 149 with one end resting' upon itself andthe other upon the lug 142, a stop being afforded by the end of the forkin the end portion 145 or by engagement of the latter with the point ofa stop-screw 150 tapped into the rigid arm 142.

Sustained by the standard 4 is a fulcrumstud 151. upon which is mountedthe hub 152 of a swinging locking lever 153 carrying the contact-plate153X adjacent one edge which is formed with spaced locking" notches 154and 155 to receive the pin 144 .of the rocklever arm 142, and providedat its lower end with an apertured boss 156 to which is pivotallyconnected by means of the pin 157 the offset extremity 158 of aswingingarm 159 carrying a contact-block 160 adjacent the inturned extremity146* of the swinging leverarm 146.

As represented in Fig. 4, the locking arm 153 carries a stud-screw 161embraced by one end of la spring 162 whose opposite end is attached to aplate 163 secured to a stud '164 projecting fromthe standard 4, wherebythe i locking arm is maintained yieldingly in operative relation withthe pin 144. To the free end of the swingingarm 159 is secured the foot165 of a bent rod 166 adapted for ehgagementlby a rod 167 rigidlysecured to and depending from the swinging rock-lever arm 146. The lever153 has, secured thereto a straight wire spring 168 which rests againstan ear 158K of the member 158 to press the arm 159 inwardly2 whereby itsrod 166 is maintained'in yieldlng contact with f the rod V167 carried4by the swinging rock lever-arm 146.

Suitably mounted in a bearing bracket 169 beneath the bed-plate 1 is acounterfshaft 170 .provided 'with a grooved pulley 171 embraced by abelt 172 from' the source o. powen The shaft 170 carries a bevel pinion173 meshing with a, similar pinion 174 fixed and the pivotally mountedtappet 198 upon the upright worm-shaft 175 journaled formed with a yoke199 embracing said hub meshing with the peripheral teeth of a 198 andthe bottom of a soclret formed in the 7a the frame. position'wherein astop-arm 199x forming As represented more particularly in Fig. anextension of one member of the yoke 199 5, t e worm-wheel 178 is cui;out in one side rests in contact with the face of the gear 196, 75 toform a radial recess for reception of the and in which position relativeto the sustainslide-block 180 formed in one end with the ing gear 196the said tappet moves i'n a path complementa] Worm-teeth 181 and at thein which are normally located the contactother end with a hollow boss182 'slidingly block' 153c of the locking lcver 153, the nose ttedwithin a radial socket of the .worm- 143 of the rigid rock-lever-'arm142 and the `80 wheel and provided with the spring 183'nor` end of thefinger 115 upon the fixed collar mally pressing 'said block outwardlyinto 114.

Upon the channeled outer end of the stud wheel teeth, its range ofmovement being 164 is secured by means of the screw 202 limited by thestop-screw 184 extending the shank 203 of a tripping lug 204 having 85through the side of the worm-wheel into a an inclined operative face 205arranged in longitudinal slot 185 in the boss 182 Whose the normal pathof circular movement of ends it is adapted to engage. the tappet 198 andwith its inner extremity The slide-block 181 has a lateral lug `186 insubstantial register with the inner end of whose outer wedge-shapedextremity is northe'linger 115 in the initial position of the 90 mally.engaged by the cammed end 187 0f stitch-orming mechanism prior to thethe laterally extending controlling lever 188 Stitching of the eye 0fthe buttonhole. In fulcrurned upon the stud-screw 189 and performing arotation, the tappet 198 endrawn downwardly so as to rest upon the gagesone side of the finger 115 in the dotted top of the lower Wormshaftbearing 176 by line position thereof represented in Fig. 7, 95 means ofthe spring 190. Projecting upanA carries it around into the :full lineposi- Wardly from a lug 191 upon the b tion of said figure at whichpoint the insprlng detent-arm 192 whose enlarged upper clined operativeface 205 of the tripping end is provided in one' edge with a notch 193lug deflects the tappet inwardly in opposinominally embracing the lug1860f the yieldtion to its spring 201 and thereby disengages 100retracted position, when engaged by the heel POSIOII during theremainder 0f the rotaof the cammed extremity 187 of the levertion, and'by the quarter-turn of the shaft arm 188. By-the lifting of thelever-arm 104 thus eected, the stitch-forming mecht the lug 186 isreleased and the worm-wheel anism is given a retrograde half-turn fol-105 section pressed by its spring 183 into operlowing a semi-rotationfor an eye-stitching ative relation with the worm 177 whereby a'operation. V rotary movement of the worm-wheel 178 is An initialrotation ofthe gears 194 and inaugurated which continues until the com196 S produced by lifting the cam-lever 188 pletion of a rotation, whenthe retraction of to establish operative relation between the 110 theworm-wheel section by encounter of the worm 177 and worm-Wheel 178. Inthe lug 186 with the cam-member 187 interrupts initial starting positiono f the parts, the the operative relation between the worm androck-level' 140 142. is in its less inclined wurm-wheel and causes thelatter to stop. @lmnp-@planing position 1n which the nose he engagementof the lnner face of the lug 1&3 of t e arm 142 1s close to and beneath115 186 with the outer face of the detent-arm 192 the contact-plate1523*. As the s ring- Y causes the deiiection of the latter until thepressed tappet 198 performs a rotatlon, it lug comes in regis er withthe holding notch iirst engages the plate 153r to retract the 193, whenthe det t-arm snaps into normal locking` lever 153 from engagement ofits position with its notch embracing-said lug, upper notch 154 w1th"thepin 144, after 120 thereby locking the worm-Wheel in initial which thetappet engages the nose 143.01 the position. swinging rock-lever- 'rm142 .and tilts the Secured to and adapted to rotate with the rock-leverto turn th clamp rock-shaft 76 worm-wheel 178 Iis a gear-wheel 194 towhich whereby the clamp-j" ws are successively is rigidly connected theradially extending closed upon the work and spread. 125 clamp-openingtappet 195. .Loosely mounted In its tilting movement. with the rock uponthe transverse shaft 1,04 and in inter- 'lever 140 142, the swin ng arm146.is meshing relation with the gear.194 istlie thrown outwardly from.t e path of movegear 196 upon the hub of which is secured ment of theclamp-opening tappet. 195` by the rigidllltch-lever shifting tappet 197engagement of a bent rod 206 with the 130 rounded nose of the cam-arm116 which is at this time in a substantially vertical position upon itsnow stationary supporting shaft 104 previous to the eye-stitchingoperation. The engagement of the rod 167 with the rod 166 at the sametime draws the swinging arm 159 of the locking lever out of the path ofmovement of said tappet 195, so that the latter performs an idlerotation at this time. After the stitching of the first side of thebuttonhole, the stitch-forming.

mechanism receives a semi-rotation as be fore explained, whereby theshaft 104 is given a quarter-turn and the finger 115 and cam-arm 116assume the positions represented in Fig. wherein the cam-arm isretracted from engagement with the rod 206 so as to permit the nose 146Xof the swinging arm 146 and the contact-block 160 of the lockinglever-arm 159 to return under thc action of the springs 148 and 16S intothe path of travel of the tappet 195.

At the end of a buttonhole stitching and cutting operation, a secondlifting of the cam-lever 188 causes a final rotation of the gears 194and 196, during which the tappet 198 incidentally shifts the lockinglever 153 but passes without engaging the nose 143 of the lever-arm 142in its lower position` but it engages the finger 115 and carries itaround until disengaged therefrom by the tripping lug 204 as before,described. After the engagement and release of the locking lever 153 bythe tappet 198, the engagement by the tappet 195 with the contact-block165 carried by the swinging arm 159 of thelocking lever 153 Iagaindisengages the lever 153 from the pin 155 and while the rock-lever 140142 is thus unlocked, engages the nose 146x of the arm 146, therebytilting the rock-lever to open the clamp and draw its jaws together fora Succeeding operation, the rod 206 being carried upward by thismovement sufliciently to clear the cam-arm 116 in its return to initialposition.

The main-shaft 21 has loosely mounted upon its rearward end theperipherally grooved pulley-wheel 207 formed in its inner face with acavity provided with a conical rim 208 to afford a clutch-member adapted to be pressed into operative frictional engagement with the conicalrim of a clutch member 209 having its hub 210 fixed upon the main-shaft.The peripheral groove of the pulley-wheel 207 is adapted to receive thedriving belt 211 extending from a. double-grooved pulley 212 upon acounter-shaft 213 mounted in bearings 214 depending from the bed-plateand driven by a, belt 215 from the source of power.

The pulley-wheel 207 has in its outer face a Athrust plate 216 providedwith a convex central portion and secured thereto by means of fasteningscrews 217. This thrustplate is normally pressed outwardly fordisengagement of the clutch-members 208 and 209 by means of a plug 218fitted within an axial socket of the shaft 21 with a spring 219interposed between the inner end of said plu and 4the bottom of thesocket.

'lghe thrust-plate 216 is adapted to be engaged by the inclined adjacentfaceof a wedge-piece 220 secured tothe clutch-lever 221 fixed upon therearward end of a transverse rocl -shaft and carrying upon its outer endthe pivotally mounted nose-piece formed with the angularly disposed arms223 and 224 pivotally mounted upon said lever at their intersection bymeans of the pin 225. The arm 223 is sustained in normal position byengagement of the stop-lug 226 of the nose-piece with the edge of thelever 221, and the outer end of the same lies in the path of movementAof the tappet 197 at the beginning of a-cycle of the machine, and asrepresented in full lines in Fig. 3. ln the initial rotation of thegearing 194 196, the tappet 197 acts upon the tripping piece immediatelyafter the closing of the clamp and forces the clutch-lever 221 forwardlyto couple the main-shaft with its constantly running driving clement207.

Fixed upon the forward end of the mainshaft 21 is a hand-wheel 227having a hub portion which constitutes one of two spaced thrust membersof which the other is a fixed disk Loosely mounted upon the shaft 21between thc thrust members 228 and 229 is a pair of collars shown ascircular plates or disks 230 and 231 having upon their adjacent facesrespectively the wedge-shaped projections or teeth 232 and 233 adaptedfor -wedge-like engagement, when said disks are relatively turned, toforce them apart into frictional engagement with the adjacent thrustmembers or interposed washers 234 and 235.

The disk 230 is provided with a forked lug 236 embracing the forward endof the rock-shaft by means ofA which it is rev strained against rotationwith the mainshaft. The other disk 231 has a lateral arm 237 upon whichis fnlcrumed by means of the screw 238 the elbow-lever 239 formed with alateral arm carrying a wearing block 240. The wearing blockis adapted torest upon the eccentric periphery of a cam-ring 241 secured upon the hubof the disk 229. A depending arm of the elbow-lever 239 carries a stud242 which enters a curved slot 243 in the cam-lever 244 fulcrumed `bymeans of the stud-screw 245 upon the post 246 rising from the bed-plate1.

The cam-lever 244 is connected by means of the screwbolt 247 with thelower end of a link 248 whose upper end is attached by means of 'thescrew-stud 249 to the forwardly projecting crank-arm 250 fixed upon therock-shaft 222. The link 248 is normally drawn downwardly by a spring251 to normally seat a stop-arm 252 thereof upon the'flattened upper endof the standard 246.

The rock-shaft 222 has also fixed thereon the rearwardly extendingforked arm 253 provided with the short branch 254 and the 'longer branch255 carrying the feed-tripping rod 62 before mentioned. The branch 254is adapted for engagement by the operative shoulder of the an larlatch-lever 256 mounted upon the fixeufulcrum-screw 257 and having arearwardly extending tail 258, such lever being pressed into operativeen gagement with the member 254 by means of a spring 259 coiled aroundits fulcrumstud 257. The member 254 of the arm 253 is also adapted forengagement by the hooked outer end of the upwardly extending arm 260 ofan angular locking lever fulcrumed upon the stud 261 and having atripping arm 262 whose inturned extremity lies in the path of movementof the tripping stud 57 carried by the gear-wheel 39. The

tripping lever 260 262 is provided with the usual spring for throwing itinto operative engagement with the member 254 of the arm 253. s

The cam-lever 188 carries a stud 263 embraced by the lower end of anAupright rod 264 whose apertured opposite end embraces.

a stud-screw 265 of a lever 266 mounted upon the fulcrum-screw 267and'having an inclined outer end portion upper end, the rod 264 carriesa roller-stud 269 adapted for engagement by the camfinger 270 fixed uponthe rockingipin 271 which is journaled in the standard 4 and has fixedupon its opposite end a depending arm 272 with its lower extremity bentforwardly into an extension 273 formed intermediate the ends with iashoulder 274.

`The arm 272 is normally pressed back# wardly into retracted positionby-meanso a spring 275 secured thereon and having an arm resting uponthe hub of the latch-lever 256.

Secured Vto the` frame member, 5 is a bracket 276 carrying afulcrum-stud 277 upon which is mounted the rock-lever 278 the forwarddepending arm of which is formed with a finger-piece 279 and theupwardly and rearwardly extending arm of which carries a pivotal pin 280to -which is connected one arm of the starting rod 281 which passesthrough an aperture 282 in the bracket 283 and is formed with anoutwardly and rearwardly -directed extension 284 formed at its rearwardextremity with a depending forked lug 285 embracing the extension 273 ofthe arm 272 and resting thereon intermediate the body of said arm andthe shoulder 274. The starting4 rod 1s 268. Near the' shown formed witha stop-lug 281* adapted for engagement with the bracket 283 to limit theoperativ'e movement of .said rod.

In the drawings, the parts are represented with the work-holder closedand the slitcutting mechanism in the positions assumed in a slit-cuttingoperation, the main-shaft with its controlling devices and the mechanismconnected therewith being under the same conditions as exist at thebeginning of a cycle of operation of the entire machine. To followthrough a. complete cycle of the machine, it is therefore necessary onlyto assume that the slit-cutting has been completed and the clamp openedin readiness for a succeeding stitching and cutting operation.

Pressure upon the finger-piece 279 of the rock-lever 278 draws thestarting rod 281 forward and thereby engages the forked lug 285 of thelatter with the shoulder 274 of the rocking arm 272, which `causes theturning of the cam-finger 27010 lift the rod 264 for imparting anoperative cycle of movement to the clamp-operating mechanism. Theshifting of the clutch-lever 221 into operative position by this meansserves to rock the shaft 222 by means of which the arm 253 is loweredinto running position where it is initially retained by thespring-actuated latch-lever 256. The rocking of the shaft 222 furthercauses the elevation of the arm 250 and consequent rise of the ram-lever2&4.

the action of whose cam-slot 243 upon the stud 242 is to disengage thecontact-block 240` from the cam-disk 241 and remove the friction uponthe thrust-members and 229.

The described movement of the arm throws the trippin rod 62 intoengagement with the contact-p ate 59, whereby the detent-lever 46 isdisengaged from the initial feed-pawl 32 and the feeding mechanism isthrown into action simultaneously with the starting of the main-shaft.The recession of the tripping stud 57 from the locking leverarm 262permits the locking arm 260 to engage the extremity 254L of therock-shaft arm 253 to retain the same in rimning position after thedisengagement therefrom of the latch-lever 256 by the action of the stud52 upon the ear-wheel'38. In the stitchin ot the seeon side of thebnttonhole the feeflrg mechanism reverses and the tripping stud 57 againmoves into engagement with the locking lever-arm 262, thereby shiftingthe same to disengage the arm 26() from the with the kicking lever-arm260. rockesliaft arni is depressed 1n startingA corresponding movementot the camlover il which rocks the willow-lever 22:39 to bring thecontact-Mock 'Jiu into forcible engagement with the periphery of thecani-ring 241 hy means of which the pressure disk Q31 is tnrncd toengage its teeth with those of the dish 23() wherehy fric-tion isapplied to tho thrustanclnhers 228 and )2H to arrest the shaft 2i.

As shown and descrilied in our Patent No. LOBH, dated August i3, 1912,the slit-cuttingy mechanism comprises the rocklevcr LH carr \\'iuflr anupper rutter-nn-niher LHi' and sustained hy a rock-shaft 28S coneentriewith the fulcrunrscrcw 141 for thc clamp-operating mailt-lever, Thelower cutter-member is moved into and out of operative relation with theupper cutter-member for a cutting operation hy means of a connectionwith the rock-lever 2R53 which is itselic actuated hf a triangle devicecomposed of linksfl@ and 290 connecte-d hy the pivF otal pin 291 whichis emliraced liy' the forn ward end of a link-har 292 having' itsapertnred opposite end entered hy a cranlcpin 29)., upon aw11r|11-wl1cel 32M mounted upon a supporting stud 295. Lilie Iheworin-wheel ahle toothed section 296 controlled in' its action hy thecannncd extremity 29T ot' a lever 298 mounted upon a rock-shaft i299having secured npon its opposite end the depending arm 30() formed witha lateral lip 300".

The lil 2500* of the armiOO is adapted to he engaged hy the. hookedextremity 2,01 of a pan'ldever 302 pivotally mounted upon au upwardlyextending arm 30? ot' an angle lever' tulcrumed upon a stud 301 carriedhy an ui'nvardly projecting ea r 305 oi' the rock-` shaft arm andhaving;r a lateral arm 30G which is connected hy n'leans of the link 30T1V hen the the main-shaft, the anglo-lever S03 306 is carried downwardbodily andlis rocked by its link connection 30T with the stationarylever-arm 260, whereby the pawldevcr 302 is caused to rest upon the lip300 of the arm 3U() of the c1Itter-control!inar deviceJ As the arm 253rises at the completion of a stitching operation, the angle-lever 303306 is rocked so as to draw the paivl-lever 302 forwardly and therebyshift the arm 80() to lift the ca1n-arn1 Q98 in opposition to its spring308 to throw the cutter mechanism into action. One of the jointedsections of the link-har 43 is slidingly mounted Within a gnideway 309iol a rising and falling' frame 310 connected with and actuated hy thecutter rock-shaft "FSSin such'nianner that when the upper-cuttercarrying arm 286 descends for a cutting action, the frame SIQ rises andretracts the 1vork-cla1np from Stitching position into cutting positionfrom meegaan which it is returned 'oy the descent of the frame 231i)cll'ccted hy the reverse movement ot the lever Just prior to thecompletion of a rotation of the cutter-actuating ivornrwheel 291, therearward end of the link-har .292 engages the inclined forward extremity26S of thel lever 26(3 thereby lifting they rod 261 and imparting thesecond oinrative. mov'cinent to the cam-lever 138 to effect the tina]Cycle of operation ot' tho actuating mechanism for the claninoz-eratingroclclever, the operation ol' which is as hasbeen already described.

In the rise of the laterally swinging leverarm liti under the action ot'the tappet 195 in opening the work-clamp. the end of the rod 2U()encounters the arm 221 of the nosopiece carried by the clutch-lever221,y thus turning ther same into the dotted lino position representedin Fig. 3. wherein the arm 223 is lifted out ot' the path of movement ofthe still moving' tappet 19S so as to prevent a reclnti'rhing of thc:nain-shaft to its driving element 30T at this time.

While the several trains of mechanism associated together in the machineshown in the drawings have been described in detail. hoth as to theirconstructivo features and their craperation in the production of astitched bnttonhole, it is to he understood that the` invention embodiedtherein is snsccjitihle of emhodiment in different types of mechanismand in widely ditl'erent forms and relations than those shown anddescribed herein.

[laying thusl set forth the nature of the invention7 what we claimherein is:-

1. 1n a inittonhole stitching machine, the combination with aWork-clamp, stitch-forining and tiredinar mechanisms, and actuatingvmeans therefor. of nie-ans independent of said. actuatingV means andadapted to actautoinatically and imsitively upon the clamp to open andclose the same.

2. ln a hattonholo stitchingr machine. thel combination with awork-Clamp, stitchfolming and feeding' mechanisms, slit-Cnttingmechanism` and successively operating.lr means for actuating thestitch-forming and Jfeeding); mechanisms and the cutting mechanisnny ofmeans acting independently of said actuating means for automaticallyclosing and opening,r said clamp. Y

3. In a buttonhole stitching machine. the combination with a work-clamp,stitchformingr and feeding mechanisms, slit-cnt? ting mechanism, andindependent and snocessively opeating means for actuating thestitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and the cutting mechanism, ofneans acting independently of said actnf .zing means for automaticallyclosing ant opening said clamp, and controlling devices therefor.whereby the successive closing and opening of the clamp are timed tooccur respectively he tore and after the operation of said actuatingmeans for the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and the cuttingmechanism.

Ll. ln a` buttonhole stitching machine, the rifombnation with a.Worleclamp, stitch- ?orming and feeding mechanisms, slit-cuttingmechanism` and successively operating means for actuating thestitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and the cutting mechanism, ofcl:Hup-operating means acting indei'wndently of said actuating means foreffecting the closing and opening ofvthe clamp, means for effectingactnati,g|1,ei`4 tin;h ela:np-operating means both befoitiind after theoperation of the stitch-forming, feeding and ,'ntting mechanisms in fachbuttonholeproducing cycle5 and controlling means ainsi-ebpr the clamp iscaused to be altcrnatel \r closed and opened.

ln a` huttonhole stitching machine, the combination with a work-clamp,stitchfocniing and feeding mechanisms, means including a rotaryv shaftfor olierating the saine, a constimtly rotating driving element, and aclntch device including a. swinging lever ivluirebjiY said shaft may becoupled to the driving element. of dauin-actuating means withconnections with the clamp whereby the latter is opened and closed, andmeans carried by said clamp-actuating means and adapted to move theclutch lever into starting position for setting in motion thestitch-,forming and feeding mechanisms.

(l. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with awork-clamp, stitch-forining and feeding mechanisms, means for impartingoperative movements thereto, and means for turning the stitch-formingmechanism during the stitching of the eye of an cyelet end butt-onholc,of chimp-operating means independent of the operating means for thestitch-forming and feeding mechanisms whereb)r the. clamp is opened andel sed respectivelyat the beginning and end of a` buttonhole-producingcycle, and means connected with the clamp-operating means for turningthe stitch-forming mechanism into initial position after eac stitchingoperation.

7. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the, combination with a.Work-clamp, stitchlorming and feeding mechanisnis, means for impartingoperative movements Jthereto, and means for turning the stitch-formingmechanism during the stitching of the, c ve of an c vclet-endbuttonhole, of clamp-operating means timed for action both before andafter a` buttonhole stitching o eration and hicluding a rotar)T elementadilpted in its first actuation to close the clamp` and in itssucceeding actuation to turn the stitch-forming mechanism into initialposition. r

8. In a buttonhole stitchingr machine2 the combination with awork-clamp, stitchforming mechanism, feeding mechanism for producing thereverie' feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and thewalt-island), and including dwell-producing means having a connectionWith the stitch-forming nniehaniem whereby the latter is givensenil-Mutation for the Stitching ol one enitof a buttonhole, andactuating means for the stitch-forming and feeding meehanisms, ofelamp-operating means independent ol the actuating means for thestileli-lorniing and feeding mechanisms wherebyY the clamp is opened andclosed respectively at the beginning and end of a butfonhole-iwnrlneingevele, and means connected with the el:mm-inicrating means for turningthe stitch-forming mechanism into initial position after each stitchingoperation.

il. ln a lluttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a Whale-china), and means for producingrelative feeding` movements between the stiteluforming mechanism and theWorkelamp, of work-clamp operating means mounted separately from thework-clamp and adapted to close and Open the latter, and a permanentconnection between said operating means and the work-clamp adapted tofollow .said feeding movements.

10. ln a button hole stitching machine, the con'ibination 'withstitch-forming mechanism. a work-clamp, means for producing relativefeeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and theworkclamp` and adjusting means whereby the length of relatiie traverseof the workelamp and stitch-forming mechanism may be varied. ofwork-clamp operating means mounted .f-'ei'iaratelv from the work-clampand adapted .to close and open the latter, and a permanent connectionbetween said nia-rating means and the work-clamp adapted to follow saidfeeding nmvements.

11. ln a bnttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism. a work-clamp provided with relatively movableupper and lower jaws and means including a toggle` device for closingsaid 'aes toe'ether and maintaininor theming relative feeding movementsbetween the stitch-forming mechanism and the Workc'lainp, of work-clampoperatingmeans, a

permanem connection between said operating means and the work-clampadapted to follow said feeding movenints, means applied to an element ofsaid clamp-operating means for locking the same against operativemovement during a stitching operation, and means for controlling theaction of said locking means.

13. In a buttonhole stitching machine. the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a Work-clamp, and means for producing relativefeeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and theworkclamp, of Work-clamp operating means, a permanent` connectionbetween said operating means and the work-clamp adapted to follow saidfeeding movements, means applied to an element of said clamp-operatingmeans for locking the same against operative movement both inclamp-opening and closing positions, and means for controlling .theaction ot said locking means.

v 14. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relativefeeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and theworkclamp. of work-clamp operating means, a permanent connection betweensaid operating means and the work-clamp adapted to follow said feedingmovements, means applied to an element of said clamp-operating means fornormally maintaining the latter in either of its extreme positions, andcontrolling means for disengaging the locking means from said elementboth before and after a buttonhole stitching operation.

15. In a button-hole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and actuating means therefor, of awork-holder comprising pairs of separable clamping jaws movablelaterally toward and from each other and formed with inclined grooves, aspreading plate provided with inclined ribs fitted within the grooves ofsaid clamping jaws and with spaced shoulders, a clamp-operating deviceprovided with contact fingers adapted respectively to engage theclamping jaws and the shoulders of the spreading plate, and ac- `tuatingmeans for said clamp-operating device whereby the clamping jaws aresnccessively closed upon the work and spread preparatory to thestitching operation.

16. A work-holder for buttonhole stitching `machines comprising pairs ofseparable clamping jaws movable laterally toward and from each other, 'atoggle device for drawing said jaws into clamping relation, a slideplateoperatively connected with a member of said toggle device and providedwith divergent guides each connected with one of the jaws of each pair,and means for actuating said toggle device for Opening and scemo closingsaid jaws and for imparting thereto relative lateral. shiftingmovements.

17. A work-holder for buttonhole stitching machines comprising pairs ofseparable clamping jaws movable laterally toward and from each other, atoggle device for drawing said jaws into clamping relation, a

. slide-plate` provided with divergent guides each connected withone ofthe jaws of each pair, a loose connection between an element of saidtoggle device and the slide-plate whereby the latter is causedto erformits operative spreading movement a ter the toggle device has performedthe clamp-jaw closing portion of its movement, and means for actuatingsaid toggle device.

18. In a buttonhole stitchin machine, the combination with a work-c amp,stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, slit cutting mechanism, andindependent and successively operating means for actuating thestitch-forming and feedin mechanisms and the cutting mechanism, o meansindependent of said actuating means for automatically closing the clamp,and means actuated by the clamp-closing means for setting in motion oneof said actuating means.,

19. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with aWork-clamp, stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, slit-cuttingmechanism, and independent and successively operatin means for actuatingthe stitch-forming an feedin mechanisms and the cutting mechanism, omeans independent of said actuating means for automatically closing theclamp, controlling means whereby the actuating means for thestitchforming and feeding mechanisms may be thrown into and out ofaction, and an operative connection between said controlling means andthe clamp-closing means.

` 20. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with aWorkclamp,stitchf0rm ing and feeding mechanisms, means for impartingoperative movements to the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, andmeans or turning the stitch-forming mechanism duringthe stitchin of theend of a buttonhole, of clamp-closing means, clampopening meansconnected to and movable simultaneously with the clamp-closing means,and means controlled by the turn ing means of the stitch-formingmechanism for interrupting`-and establishing operative relation betweenthe clamp-opening means and the clamp.

21. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relativefeeding movements between the stitch-forming' mechanism and theworkclamp, of work-clamp operating means comprising a rock-lever, aflexible connection between the` same and the work-clamp, and actuatingmeans including tWo diierentially moving tappets adapted to actpositively upon said rocklever to rock the same alternately in oppositedirections.

22. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relativefeeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and theworkclamp, of the work-clamp operating means comprising a rock-lever, aconnection between the same and the work-clamp, and actuating meansincluding two rotary tappets geared together for rotation in oppositedirections, means for insuring the alternate engagementoi said tappetswith said "r-lever, and means for imparting to said tappets tworotationswith an intermediate period of rest for each buttonholestitching operation. i

23. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relativefeeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and theworkclamp, of work-clamp operating means comprisinga rock-lever providedwith a rigid Varm and a swinging arm adapted for movement laterallytransversely to its rocking movements, a connection between therocklever and the work-clamp, actuating means including a clamp-closingand a clamp-opening' tappet with means for imparting operative movementsthereto, and means for shifting the swinging rock-lever arm out ofoperative relation with the clamp-opening tappet during the action ofthe clamp-closing tappet upon the rigid rock-lever arm, and forthereafter restoring said swinging arm to operative relation with theclamp-opening tappet.

24. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, and means for producing relativefeeding movements between the stitchforming mechanism and thework-clamp, of work-clamp operating means comprising a rock-lever, aconnection between the same and the work-clamp, a normally operativelocking device for preventing the movement of said rock-lever, aclamp-closing and a clampopening tappet adapted for action successivelyupon said rock-lever and upon said locking device preparatory to eachengagement with the rock-lever, meansfor imparting operative movementsto said tappets,

combination with stitch-forming mechanism,

a work-clamp, and means for producing relative feeding movements betweenthe stitchforming mechanism and the work-clamp, of work-clamp operatingmeans comprising a rock-lever provided with a rigid arm and a. swingingarm adapted for movement laterally transversely to its rockingmovements, a connection between the rock-lever and the work-clamp, avnormally operative locking element provided with a rigid shoulder and alaterally yielding shoulder movable transversely of the direction ofrocking movement of the rock-lever, a clamp-closing tappet' adapted forsuccessive engagement with the rigid shoulder of the locking element andthe rigid arm of the rock-lever for unlocking and shifting therock-lever to close the clamp, a clamp-opening tappet adapted forsuccessive engagement with the yielding shoulder of the locking elementand the laterally swinging arm of the rock-lever for unlocking andshifting the rock-lever to open the clamp, means for actuatin saidtappets, and means for preventingt e effective o eration of theclamp-opening tappet whie the clamp-closing tappet is in effectiveaction.

26. In a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, slit-cutting mechanism, operating means forsaid slit-cutting mechanism, a work-clamp, means for producing relativefeeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and thework-clamp, and adjusting means whereby the length of relative traverseof the work-clamp and stitch-forming mechanism may be varied, ofautomatically acting means independent of said o perating means andunaffected by said adJust- Ving meansfor closing and opening the clamprespectively at the eginning and end of` a buttonhole-producing cycle. il

In testimony whereof, we have signed our naines to this specication, inthe presence Aof two subscribing Witnesses,

JAMES G. GREENE. LOUIS F. A. BUCHNER. Witnesses:

HENRY J. MILLER, HENRY A. KORNEMANN, Jr.

